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I have so much to do before Friday. I'm shifting between feeling heartsick for having to leave Denis for so long, really really excited because I'm going to Europe, and nauseous-nervous for having to give this as-yet-unprepared oral report.
We did get a preliminary itinerary for the trip.2003: AN ART ODYSSEY
DAILY PROGRAM
Saturday, January 4: Amsterdam
Morning Arrive and settle into Hotel Agora
13:30 Meet Mariët Westermann in hotel lobby
13:30-15:15 Walking and boat tour of Amsterdam
15:45-17:00 Clandestine Catholic church Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder, Oude Zijds Voorburgwal 40, with rare preserved 17th-century interior
19:00 Meet in hotel lobby for drink at nearby Café Hoppe and Indonesian dinner at Kantjil en de Tijger
Sunday, January 5: Amsterdam and Haarlem
09:30 Morning free for visits to Van Goghmuseum or initial exploration of Rijksmuseum
12:00 Meet at Centraal Station (platform and time TBA) for train to Haarlem
12:30-14:30 Frans Halsmuseum, with most significant collection of paintings by Frans Hals and Haarlem Mannerists, and strong collection of 17th century Dutch applied arts
Jamie on Hals’s Banquet of the Officers of St. Hadrian
14:30-15:30 Walking tour for key monuments of 16th and 17th architecture by Lieven de Key, Jacob van Campen, and others
15:30-16:30 Teylers Museum, oldest museum of art and science in the Netherlands
Monday, January 6: Amsterdam
9:30 Meet in lobby to take tram to Rijksmuseum
10:00-13:00 Rijksmuseum, including meeting with Director of Paintings
Emy on Geertgen tot Sint Jans’s Holy Kinship
Afternoon Free for more extended visit to Rijksmuseum or for Stedelijk Museum (Municipal Museum of Modern Art)
18:30 Meet in hotel lobby
19:00-20:00 Drinks in Dr. Anneke Westermann’s flat on the Amstel River
Tuesday, January 7: The Hague
08:30 Meet packed and ready to go in hotel lobby for tram and train to The Hague. Please settle any incidental charges to your hotel room; Graduate Program covers room and breakfast only.
11:00-13:00 Mauritshuis, including meeting with Senior Curator
Amelia on Vermeer’s View of Delft
13:00-16:00 Free for optional visits to Galerie Willem V (reconstructed 19th-century gallery with 17th- and 18th-century paintings, and 17th century Dutch silver exhibition) or Gemeentemuseum (Municipal Museum of Modern Art)
16:30 Meet at Centraal Station, The Hague (platform and time TBA), to take train to Antwerp
Evening Arrive and settle into Hotel Rubens
Wednesday, January 8: Antwerp
08:45 Meet in hotel lobby
09:00 Walking tour of Groote Markt to see Town Hall and Guild Halls; Jesuit Church
10:00 Onze Lieve Vrouwe Kathedraal (architecture and paintings, incl. Rubens altarpieces)
11:30-12:30 Rubenshuis
13:30-15:30 Museum voor Schone Kunsten
15:30 Afternoon free for more extended visit to Museum voor Schone Kunsten or for Museum Mayer vanden Bergh, Museum Plantin-Moretus, or Jacobskerk
Thursday, January 9: Ghent and Bruges
08:00 Meet in hotel lobby to take train to Ghent
9:30-11:30 Ghent: Townhall, Church of St. Bavo, and Ghent Altarpiece
12:00 Leave from Ghent Altarpiece for train to Bruges
13:30-16:30 Bruges: Groeninge Museum, Memling Museum, and Michelangelo’s Pietà
Friday, January 10: Antwerp to Brussels to London
08:00 Meet packed and ready to go in hotel lobby to go to Antwerp Central Station for Brussels. Please settle any incidental charges to your hotel room; Graduate Program covers room and breakfast only. Store luggage at Brussels Central. To the Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique (Mariet may or may not be able to be with you at the museum)
Claire on David’s Death of Marat
13:00-16:30 Afternoon for sightseeing
no later than
17:00 Train to Brussels Airport
19:30 Flight to London. Arrive and settle into Swiss House Hotel
(from Heathrow, take Piccadilly Line towards Cockfosters to Gloucester Road; 13 minute walk to hotel; ANOTHER OPTION: Piccadilly Line towards Cockfosters to Earl’s Court; five minute walk to Earl’s Court Station Stop A; take Bus C1 towards Victoria to Bolton Gardens; 2 minute walk to hotel; OR, AS ABOVE, BUT TAKE Bus C1 to Cresswell Gardens, with a 1 minute walk to hotel)
Late Hours: British Museum until 20:30; National Portrait Gallery until 21:00; Tate Modern until 22:00
Saturday, January 11: London
9:00 Meet in lobby to take Underground to
9:30 British Library (The John Ritblat Gallery has over 200 of the British Library’s greatest treasures, including the Magna Carta, the Lindisfarne Gospels, the Sherborne Missal, Shakespeare’s First Folio, Lewis Carroll’s illustrated manuscript of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, etc., etc.)
12:00-17:30 British Museum (The Elgin Marbles, the Rosetta Stone, Townley sculpture collection, Celtic metalwork, Assyrian art, etc., etc.). Special exhibitions include Antony Gormley drawing, Piranesi’s Prisons, Sir Hans Sloanes drawing and print collection, Vietnam : Behind the Lines; and the extra-charge Albrecht Durer and his legacy.
Emma on the Elgin Marbles
Late Hours: Tate Modern until 22:00
Sunday, January 12: London
9:00 Meet in lobby to take Underground to
10:00 Kenwood House (Iveagh Bequest) (An outstanding neoclassical house—remodelled by Robert Adam between 1764 and 1779--filled with one of the nation’s great private art collections, notably works by Reynolds, Gainsborough, Rembrandt, Vermeer).
12:00 Apsley House (Home of the first Duke of Wellington, built by Robert Adam 1771-1778; paintings by Velazquez, Rubens, Van Dyck, Steen, Goya, de Hooch—many from the Spanish Royal Collection; Canova’s nude Napoleon; important silver and porcelain)
14:00-17:00 Wallace Collection (Old Master paintings, 19th-c. Academics, arms and armor, and porcelain)
Monday, January 13: London
9:30 Meet in lobby to take Underground to
10:00 Serpentine Gallery (Takashi Murakami exhibition)
11:00 Leighton House Museum (Studio-house of Frederic, Lord Leighton, P.R.A., 1830-1896; sumptuous interiors, 19th-c. paintings, a great tiled court [compensation for those of us not going on to Istanbul])
12:30-17:45 Victoria & Albert Museum (Everything—decorative arts of all ages, the Raphael tapestry cartoons, Donatello sculpture, casts of major sculptural monuments from across Europe, paintings by Constable, and much, much more.)
Tuesday, January 14: London
9:00 Meet in lobby to take Underground and train to
10:00 Dulwich Picture Gallery (According to some, Europe’s most beautiful small picture gallery. It will be a trek to get out to it, but the Old Master paintings—growing from the efforts of two London art dealers to form a Royal Collection for Poland ca. 1790-1810--make the trip worth the effort. Sir John Soane designed the building as part of Dulwich College; when it opened in the early 19th century it was England’s first public art gallery. As with the Clark, the founders—Noel and Margaret Desenfans and Francis Bourgeois--are buried on premises. There will be an Arthur Rackham exhibition on view.)
15:00-18:00 Courtauld Institute Gallery (Great paintings collection—Old Master, Impressionist, Post-Impressionist. The Gilbert Collection of metalwork and the Hermitage loan works are also housed in Somerset House.) Meet with John House at 4:15.
Erika on Daumier’s Don Quijote and Sancho Panza
Late Hours: British Library until 20:00
Wednesday, January 15: London
9:00 Meet in lobby to take Underground to
10:00 Sir John Soane’s Museum (House and collection formed by the architect [1753-1837] during the years 1792 and 1824; splendid collections of antiquities, sculpture, casts, paintings [the Canalettos and Hogarths in particular], and works on paper all jumbled together in an ingenious, bewildering fashion. To see it by candlelight on the first Tuesday of the month is to be in Heaven; by more quotidian lighting it is still a wonder.)
11:30 The Banqueting House (All that remains of Whitehall Palace, the principal royal residence from 1530 to 1698; designed by Inigo Jones for James I and completed in 1622; noted for the Rubens ceilings celebrating the life and wise government of the king, commissioned by Charles I; noted, as well, as the site of Charles’s beheading.)
13:30-(21:00) National Gallery (One of the world’s greatest picture galleries.) Meet with Chris Riopelle at 2:00, who will introduce us to the institution and give us a special look at the 19th-c. works in his care. Open until 9:00, so you may want to dash around the corner to the National Portrait Gallery before it closes at 6:00, or across the street to Christopher Wren’s St. Martins in the Fields, then bop back into the NG.
Late Hours: National Gallery until 21:00; V & A until 22:00
Thursday, January 16: London
9:30 Meet in the lobby to take Underground to
10:00 Tate Britain (The National Collection of British Art, with astounding depth in works by Blake and Turner) Special exhibitions include Gainsborough—extra fee and timed tickets required.
14:00-18:00 Tate Modern (The National Collection of Modern and Contemporary Art, whose building and installation have been the source of much comment).
David on Kiefer’s Ways of Worldly Wisdom
Alison on Beuys’s End of the 20th Century
Late Hours: British Museum until 20:30; National Portrait Gallery until 21:00
Friday, January 17: London to Vienna
?? Meet in hotel lobby to take Underground to Heathrow. . . .
Check into Hotel Dorint am Europaplatz,
Specific Program to Come
Dina on Whiteread’s Holocaust Memorial
Catherine on Bruegel’s Battle between Carnival and Lent
Liz on Klimt’s Adele Bloch-Bauer
Istanbul Program
January 22-29, 2003
Group arriving from Vienna Jan 22, departing to Vienna, Jan 29, except for individuals indicated
Hotel Location: TBA, at the foot of Galata, opposite the old city, walking distance across the bridge.
Apartment Hotel with suites for four to five persons each
Program in detail:
Wednesday, January 22:
Group arrives from Vienna
Evening dinner out
Thursday, January 23:
Tour of the old City of Istanbul:
Topkapi Saray Palace and Museum, Archaeological Museum, Turk ve Islam Eserleri Muzesi, Aya Sofya, Blue Mosque
Keelan on the Topkapi Saray
Lunch together in the area
Dinner on your own
Friday , January 24
Continue tour of old city:
Bazaar, Suleymaniye, University of Istanbul, Book Bazaar, St. Savior in Chora (Kahriye Jami), Rustem Pasha Mosque, Mihrimah Mosque, the Theodosian walls,
Lunch together in the area,
Dinner in Galata
Saturday, January 25
Koc University project tour
Lunch on the site
Sunday, January 26
Tour of the Bosphorus
Sabanci Museum
Sadberk Hanim Museum
Monday, January 27
Tour of Galata
Late Ottoman Palaces
Dolmabahce, Ihlamur
Tuesday, January 28
Modern Istanbul
Visit to architects' offices.
Visiting galleries
Lunch together
Dinner together
Wednesday, January 29
Group flight leaves
It looks like there will be a lot of pre-dinner drinks (yay!), although I am slightly concerned about the lack of plans for actual meals on a lot of the days. I wish we had the details for Vienna which is where I might meet up with Denis's extended family. I know pretty much all the art that's referred to except when it comes to Istanbul where I am completely in the dark except for the Aya Sofya.
We did get a preliminary itinerary for the trip.2003: AN ART ODYSSEY
DAILY PROGRAM
Saturday, January 4: Amsterdam
Morning Arrive and settle into Hotel Agora
13:30 Meet Mariët Westermann in hotel lobby
13:30-15:15 Walking and boat tour of Amsterdam
15:45-17:00 Clandestine Catholic church Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder, Oude Zijds Voorburgwal 40, with rare preserved 17th-century interior
19:00 Meet in hotel lobby for drink at nearby Café Hoppe and Indonesian dinner at Kantjil en de Tijger
Sunday, January 5: Amsterdam and Haarlem
09:30 Morning free for visits to Van Goghmuseum or initial exploration of Rijksmuseum
12:00 Meet at Centraal Station (platform and time TBA) for train to Haarlem
12:30-14:30 Frans Halsmuseum, with most significant collection of paintings by Frans Hals and Haarlem Mannerists, and strong collection of 17th century Dutch applied arts
Jamie on Hals’s Banquet of the Officers of St. Hadrian
14:30-15:30 Walking tour for key monuments of 16th and 17th architecture by Lieven de Key, Jacob van Campen, and others
15:30-16:30 Teylers Museum, oldest museum of art and science in the Netherlands
Monday, January 6: Amsterdam
9:30 Meet in lobby to take tram to Rijksmuseum
10:00-13:00 Rijksmuseum, including meeting with Director of Paintings
Emy on Geertgen tot Sint Jans’s Holy Kinship
Afternoon Free for more extended visit to Rijksmuseum or for Stedelijk Museum (Municipal Museum of Modern Art)
18:30 Meet in hotel lobby
19:00-20:00 Drinks in Dr. Anneke Westermann’s flat on the Amstel River
Tuesday, January 7: The Hague
08:30 Meet packed and ready to go in hotel lobby for tram and train to The Hague. Please settle any incidental charges to your hotel room; Graduate Program covers room and breakfast only.
11:00-13:00 Mauritshuis, including meeting with Senior Curator
Amelia on Vermeer’s View of Delft
13:00-16:00 Free for optional visits to Galerie Willem V (reconstructed 19th-century gallery with 17th- and 18th-century paintings, and 17th century Dutch silver exhibition) or Gemeentemuseum (Municipal Museum of Modern Art)
16:30 Meet at Centraal Station, The Hague (platform and time TBA), to take train to Antwerp
Evening Arrive and settle into Hotel Rubens
Wednesday, January 8: Antwerp
08:45 Meet in hotel lobby
09:00 Walking tour of Groote Markt to see Town Hall and Guild Halls; Jesuit Church
10:00 Onze Lieve Vrouwe Kathedraal (architecture and paintings, incl. Rubens altarpieces)
11:30-12:30 Rubenshuis
13:30-15:30 Museum voor Schone Kunsten
15:30 Afternoon free for more extended visit to Museum voor Schone Kunsten or for Museum Mayer vanden Bergh, Museum Plantin-Moretus, or Jacobskerk
Thursday, January 9: Ghent and Bruges
08:00 Meet in hotel lobby to take train to Ghent
9:30-11:30 Ghent: Townhall, Church of St. Bavo, and Ghent Altarpiece
12:00 Leave from Ghent Altarpiece for train to Bruges
13:30-16:30 Bruges: Groeninge Museum, Memling Museum, and Michelangelo’s Pietà
Friday, January 10: Antwerp to Brussels to London
08:00 Meet packed and ready to go in hotel lobby to go to Antwerp Central Station for Brussels. Please settle any incidental charges to your hotel room; Graduate Program covers room and breakfast only. Store luggage at Brussels Central. To the Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique (Mariet may or may not be able to be with you at the museum)
Claire on David’s Death of Marat
13:00-16:30 Afternoon for sightseeing
no later than
17:00 Train to Brussels Airport
19:30 Flight to London. Arrive and settle into Swiss House Hotel
(from Heathrow, take Piccadilly Line towards Cockfosters to Gloucester Road; 13 minute walk to hotel; ANOTHER OPTION: Piccadilly Line towards Cockfosters to Earl’s Court; five minute walk to Earl’s Court Station Stop A; take Bus C1 towards Victoria to Bolton Gardens; 2 minute walk to hotel; OR, AS ABOVE, BUT TAKE Bus C1 to Cresswell Gardens, with a 1 minute walk to hotel)
Late Hours: British Museum until 20:30; National Portrait Gallery until 21:00; Tate Modern until 22:00
Saturday, January 11: London
9:00 Meet in lobby to take Underground to
9:30 British Library (The John Ritblat Gallery has over 200 of the British Library’s greatest treasures, including the Magna Carta, the Lindisfarne Gospels, the Sherborne Missal, Shakespeare’s First Folio, Lewis Carroll’s illustrated manuscript of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, etc., etc.)
12:00-17:30 British Museum (The Elgin Marbles, the Rosetta Stone, Townley sculpture collection, Celtic metalwork, Assyrian art, etc., etc.). Special exhibitions include Antony Gormley drawing, Piranesi’s Prisons, Sir Hans Sloanes drawing and print collection, Vietnam : Behind the Lines; and the extra-charge Albrecht Durer and his legacy.
Emma on the Elgin Marbles
Late Hours: Tate Modern until 22:00
Sunday, January 12: London
9:00 Meet in lobby to take Underground to
10:00 Kenwood House (Iveagh Bequest) (An outstanding neoclassical house—remodelled by Robert Adam between 1764 and 1779--filled with one of the nation’s great private art collections, notably works by Reynolds, Gainsborough, Rembrandt, Vermeer).
12:00 Apsley House (Home of the first Duke of Wellington, built by Robert Adam 1771-1778; paintings by Velazquez, Rubens, Van Dyck, Steen, Goya, de Hooch—many from the Spanish Royal Collection; Canova’s nude Napoleon; important silver and porcelain)
14:00-17:00 Wallace Collection (Old Master paintings, 19th-c. Academics, arms and armor, and porcelain)
Monday, January 13: London
9:30 Meet in lobby to take Underground to
10:00 Serpentine Gallery (Takashi Murakami exhibition)
11:00 Leighton House Museum (Studio-house of Frederic, Lord Leighton, P.R.A., 1830-1896; sumptuous interiors, 19th-c. paintings, a great tiled court [compensation for those of us not going on to Istanbul])
12:30-17:45 Victoria & Albert Museum (Everything—decorative arts of all ages, the Raphael tapestry cartoons, Donatello sculpture, casts of major sculptural monuments from across Europe, paintings by Constable, and much, much more.)
Tuesday, January 14: London
9:00 Meet in lobby to take Underground and train to
10:00 Dulwich Picture Gallery (According to some, Europe’s most beautiful small picture gallery. It will be a trek to get out to it, but the Old Master paintings—growing from the efforts of two London art dealers to form a Royal Collection for Poland ca. 1790-1810--make the trip worth the effort. Sir John Soane designed the building as part of Dulwich College; when it opened in the early 19th century it was England’s first public art gallery. As with the Clark, the founders—Noel and Margaret Desenfans and Francis Bourgeois--are buried on premises. There will be an Arthur Rackham exhibition on view.)
15:00-18:00 Courtauld Institute Gallery (Great paintings collection—Old Master, Impressionist, Post-Impressionist. The Gilbert Collection of metalwork and the Hermitage loan works are also housed in Somerset House.) Meet with John House at 4:15.
Erika on Daumier’s Don Quijote and Sancho Panza
Late Hours: British Library until 20:00
Wednesday, January 15: London
9:00 Meet in lobby to take Underground to
10:00 Sir John Soane’s Museum (House and collection formed by the architect [1753-1837] during the years 1792 and 1824; splendid collections of antiquities, sculpture, casts, paintings [the Canalettos and Hogarths in particular], and works on paper all jumbled together in an ingenious, bewildering fashion. To see it by candlelight on the first Tuesday of the month is to be in Heaven; by more quotidian lighting it is still a wonder.)
11:30 The Banqueting House (All that remains of Whitehall Palace, the principal royal residence from 1530 to 1698; designed by Inigo Jones for James I and completed in 1622; noted for the Rubens ceilings celebrating the life and wise government of the king, commissioned by Charles I; noted, as well, as the site of Charles’s beheading.)
13:30-(21:00) National Gallery (One of the world’s greatest picture galleries.) Meet with Chris Riopelle at 2:00, who will introduce us to the institution and give us a special look at the 19th-c. works in his care. Open until 9:00, so you may want to dash around the corner to the National Portrait Gallery before it closes at 6:00, or across the street to Christopher Wren’s St. Martins in the Fields, then bop back into the NG.
Late Hours: National Gallery until 21:00; V & A until 22:00
Thursday, January 16: London
9:30 Meet in the lobby to take Underground to
10:00 Tate Britain (The National Collection of British Art, with astounding depth in works by Blake and Turner) Special exhibitions include Gainsborough—extra fee and timed tickets required.
14:00-18:00 Tate Modern (The National Collection of Modern and Contemporary Art, whose building and installation have been the source of much comment).
David on Kiefer’s Ways of Worldly Wisdom
Alison on Beuys’s End of the 20th Century
Late Hours: British Museum until 20:30; National Portrait Gallery until 21:00
Friday, January 17: London to Vienna
?? Meet in hotel lobby to take Underground to Heathrow. . . .
Check into Hotel Dorint am Europaplatz,
Specific Program to Come
Dina on Whiteread’s Holocaust Memorial
Catherine on Bruegel’s Battle between Carnival and Lent
Liz on Klimt’s Adele Bloch-Bauer
Istanbul Program
January 22-29, 2003
Group arriving from Vienna Jan 22, departing to Vienna, Jan 29, except for individuals indicated
Hotel Location: TBA, at the foot of Galata, opposite the old city, walking distance across the bridge.
Apartment Hotel with suites for four to five persons each
Program in detail:
Wednesday, January 22:
Group arrives from Vienna
Evening dinner out
Thursday, January 23:
Tour of the old City of Istanbul:
Topkapi Saray Palace and Museum, Archaeological Museum, Turk ve Islam Eserleri Muzesi, Aya Sofya, Blue Mosque
Keelan on the Topkapi Saray
Lunch together in the area
Dinner on your own
Friday , January 24
Continue tour of old city:
Bazaar, Suleymaniye, University of Istanbul, Book Bazaar, St. Savior in Chora (Kahriye Jami), Rustem Pasha Mosque, Mihrimah Mosque, the Theodosian walls,
Lunch together in the area,
Dinner in Galata
Saturday, January 25
Koc University project tour
Lunch on the site
Sunday, January 26
Tour of the Bosphorus
Sabanci Museum
Sadberk Hanim Museum
Monday, January 27
Tour of Galata
Late Ottoman Palaces
Dolmabahce, Ihlamur
Tuesday, January 28
Modern Istanbul
Visit to architects' offices.
Visiting galleries
Lunch together
Dinner together
Wednesday, January 29
Group flight leaves
It looks like there will be a lot of pre-dinner drinks (yay!), although I am slightly concerned about the lack of plans for actual meals on a lot of the days. I wish we had the details for Vienna which is where I might meet up with Denis's extended family. I know pretty much all the art that's referred to except when it comes to Istanbul where I am completely in the dark except for the Aya Sofya.
